Molokai 2008 - personal impressions Print E-mail
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Written by Rob Mousley   
Thursday, 15 May 2008

There's no doubt that Hawaii is one of the most beautiful places on earth to paddle; and I can't wait to experience for myself the crossing from Molokai to Oahu across the Kaiwi Channel.  Here are some personal impressions of the trip so far...

Molokai 2008
The view from my hotel room...

Jetlag

One of the challenges specific to a South African is that we're 12 time zones away from Hawaii - as far around the other side of the world as it's possible to go.

I'd been warned about the jetlag, but the reality is pretty horrible.  I planned my trip to minimise the effects, sleeping across the Atlantic and then staying awake until the evening I arrived in Honolulu.  I took sleeping pills for the following two nights, which helped to get a good 8 hours sleep but left me feeling slightly dopey and nauseated.

But this is a biggy - if you're travelling through a significant number of time zones, be aware that you need to be here a week before the race in order to recover properly.

Molokai 2008
Joe & Herman support a blind, staggering blob of jetlag

The sea water

The sea water is different to that of home - it's a lot warmer and is apparently more salty.  I was warned that my hands would suffer and sure enough, I soon had a big, painful blister on one finger - some of the other guys are in a much worse shape.

More important and more worrying, by the end of our first paddle, my coccyx was rubbed totally raw.  This surprised me because I did a 46km paddle at home in an identical ski without suffering the same problem. This is a serious issue - my bum is still very painful and after paddling the first two days, I haven't paddled again in an effort to let it heal.  I've constructed a bum pad, which I'm going to try out later today.

Paddling

The morning after I arrived, I did the famous "Makapuu Run", just over 30km from Makapuu to Hawaii Kai and on to Waikiki.  We went through the chaotic waters near the cliffs off Diamond Head and past China Walls.

Makapuu, Hawaii
Contemplating the Makapuu Run! David, Daantjie, Alexa, Pete

My impressions?  I was fascinated to see what it would be like:

  • The first section from Makapuu to Diamond Head, we headed out to see towards the channel for a couple of km and then turned right, towards the race finish. The waves were, I guess about 3ft, and quite messy. I caught some nice runs and caught up to my buddy Joe Glickman who'd started a couple of hundred metres in front of me. (Joe lives and paddles in New York, and while he's a very strong flat water paddler, he seldom gets to train in rough seas.)
  • The section along the cliffs was comparable to our "washing machine" outside Hout Bay, or the water around Cape Point back home - but more intimidating perhaps simply because of the noise - you're close to the rocks and there's a constant roaring as the swells smash into and rebound from the cliffs.
  • The section ends at the famous China Walls - there's a wave that builds right there that you can catch - as demonstrated in the video clips posted earlier. But you have to know what you're doing when you approach the reefs that are dotted around straight afterwards. My strategy is easy - I'm not going to attempt to thread my way through the reefs - I'm going around!
  • The paddle from China Walls across to Waikiki was interesting in a different way. Back home, we tend to paddle in higher winds of 30kt plus and I think this makes it easier to catch the runs; here you have to focus so much harder to work the smaller bumps. I had a great ten minutes or so with Oscar Chalupsky who coached me on catching the runs - working them left to right and back again. Even after that short "refresh", I feel more confident in my ability to conserve energy while making the most of the water movement - but I also feel intimidated by the thought of focussing so hard for such a long time!

Lost Divers

I had a slightly bizarre moment in the middle of the maelstrom off the cliffs when I spotted a huddle of scuba divers floating on the surface of the ocean...  I went over to them and found that they'd lost their dive boat - clearly they'd done a drift dive and had gone further than expected. 

I could see the boat in the distance and sure enough when we got up to it, it was going around in circles searching for the dive team - much vigorous gesturing and the captain got the idea...

Making like a Tourist

A bunch of us went out to the North Shore yesterday to have a barbeque at Charles Brand's house - located about 500m from the famous Pipeline...  We drove across the centre of the island but found ourselves, unexpectedly, on the easternmost point of the island - a spectacular drive along the shore took us through beautiful green rural areas.  The volcanic outcrops, brilliant white beaches, coves, sheer cliffs combine to make the scenery very different to anything I've experienced - and it was all refreshingly different to the bustle of the tourist centre of Waikiki.

Molokai 2008
Sundowners on the North Shore - Alexa, Pete, Barry Lewin

Chilling out

There's a Starbucks Coffee shop just around the corner from the hotel, and every morning there's a group of paddlers sitting there discussing the race, who's going well, what the conditions mean for the favourites, whether Freya Hoffmeister really is going to paddle to Molokai from Oahu before Sunday...

Molokai 2008
Epic v Fenn! Herman, Hank, Oscar and Dawid

It's highly entertaining to listen to some of the stories told some of the "characters" here...  Tales of paddlers wandering out of their rooms by mistake in the middle of the night; locking themselves out and waking up next morning in the corridor, stark naked...  (with the room maids stepping around them, going about their business... no less...)  That wasn't me and I'm not mentioning names!

The Race

My flight booking to Molokai has been done; my ski is going across on Saturday; we're pretty much all set to go.

The main topic of conversation each morning is, of course, the weather forecast.  It looks as though I'm going to have a relatively gentle introduction to the crossing - the forecasts seem to agree that a gentle easterly wind is going to start blowing on Saturday and will continue at between 10 and 15kt on Sunday.

Click here for another forecast - from the National Weather Service Forecast Office

So, in theory, we should have some wind waves to catch, but it's not going to be the massive, hectic conditions that feature in some of the war stories about the race.

I've scaled back on my expectations of my own performance - I'll be happy just to finish in less than five hours.  I'm going to go out conservatively and try to make the most of the waves without killing myself.  Most of all I'm focussing on enjoying the experience!

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Comments (8)Add Comment
Wish I was there
written by Dean Jordaan, May 16, 2008
Hey Rob, good luck buddy, can't tell you how jealous I am. Once in a lifetime experience no doubt. Say hi to Daws (this is his year 1 time), RePete and Alexa.

cheers
Dean
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Go Saffas
written by Ian Kingon, May 16, 2008
To All the Saffa's and Glicker,

DSKC are all getting together tonight for sundowners and to talk up the races and our expectations. It is Hawaiian themed and we are all really jealous of you all. Have a blast, go well, and claim the Top 10 places (if you can as some of those Aussies are looking like mean machines).

Wish you had better conditions, but clearly waiting for 2009 when there is going to be a big Dubai crew there!

Cheers
Ian
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Go Saffas go!
written by Jamii Hamlin, May 16, 2008
Nice one Rob, enjoy the trip and we are looking to cheer the Saffa boyz on at the Penisular CC. Just remind Daantjie My Bra we are expecting him in the top 20 & when you get back you can test one of my butt pads for solving that crack of yours!

Stay cool & have fun
Jamii
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written by nell, May 16, 2008
Joe, You look like a stick next to Herman in the photo! Better hit the weights one more time before sunday.
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Joe the stickman
written by Rob Mousley, May 16, 2008
Joe says: "you know what the sad thing is? I'm hitting the weights three times a day already!"
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written by nell, May 16, 2008
Well, then. . . . maybe you just need more beer. Have a good go on Sunday, my man!
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written by Damian Feuilherade, May 17, 2008
Gadget Man... you bastard!! I am sitting here green with envy. Eish. Have a fantastic race... don't stress... just enjoy. Look up every now and then and take in where you are.

Everything of the best boet. Damian
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Could I be more jealous!
written by Tom BJ, May 17, 2008
I am sitting here in boring 'Saffaland' thinking over and over about being somewhere else. Molokai has been a name dominating my daydreams these past few weeks. First time I heard about it was watching my man Thomas Magnum in the 08's paddling on his old hammerhead in the best TV show of all time. Never understood what it really stood for until I took up this beautiful sport and joined the surfski.info community. Doesn't matter which country brags about having the best paddlers, who is the best off all time, wadda wadda. What matters is how a race like this captures the imagination of all us ordinary folk who spend our lives trying to keep family and home together, getting to the office on time and making sure the bills are paid, but in our heart of hearts, knowing that we belong 'out there'. Best of luck to all the paddlers competing in the greatest show on earth. To the top boys down to Rob, the Glick, and eventually the guy who brings up the rear - the very best of luck to you all and no matter how you do, remember: WE ARE SO JEALOUS OF YOU!!!

regards
Tom
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