Replacing rudder line Nelo

After persisting for a couple of weeks unsuccessfully I have decided to seek your help in how to replace a rudder line on a Nelo 550.
I should say that since I have had the ski there has been a resistance on the left pedal when pressed which has caused the line to wear through. I have on two occasions pulled the line out further to remove the worn area. Now I have no length left. I have been unable to thread the new Nelo line through either the front or back and m at a standstill. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

You could try oscar’s vacuum cleaner method:

But it sounds like there is something inside the rudder line tube that is abrasive. A gob of glue or a crack in the plastic or something? Unless that is fixed seems like you will be replacing a lot of rudder lines. 

I'm actually in the middle of replacing the line and tubes in my epic V5. I tried Oscar's vacuum cleaner method but no luck there (maybe my vacuum isn't strong enough). What I did was use a combination of high test fishing line and low test.

The high test stuff is thick and easy to push through the tube, and the low test stuff is thin enough to tie to my rudder line without getting stuck. I connect the high and low test line with a simple fisherman's knot.

Nothing ruins a ski faster than rudder line tubes going bad:  breaking in middle, dislodging at front or back, abrasions within.  That is other than breaking the ski itself. The first manufacturer that puts the tube on the outside wins!!  Simply put 2 small channels on the top of the ski that the tube snaps into.  Yeah, a bit more expensive, maybe a gram heavier, but no more useless skis that are otherwise in perfect shape.  I have cut skis open and spent countless hours trying to fix rudder line issues on 3 different otherwise sound skis— it is sickening.  A ski is 100% useless when steering cable is broken.  Internal tubes go bad.  Period.  It WILL happen.  External tubes would be replaceable in seconds at next to no expense. I know Ranga has disagreed with my thinking here, but I simply cannot see why someone does not offer it. Try it epic, Fenn, Nelo, think, stellar, etc.  See what happens to sales.  How many posts are on rudder lines?  Put them on outside of ski and there will be no more questions about rudder lines.

mickeyA wrote: Nothing ruins a ski faster than rudder line tubes going bad

So true.

I was thinking I only needed to replace one of my tubes, but I ended up checking them all today and all 4 were rotten to hell (the V5/V7 have 2 extra tubes going to the stern for the optional kick up rudder). It seems like it's only a matter of time before this happens. I always clean the boat with fresh water, but I bought it used and I think the damage was probably already done.

Anyone who buys one of these boats used should really be spraying water into the rudder tubes to see if it leaks.

External rudder tubes sound like a good idea. Would be nice to have it as an option when ordering a new ski.

JohnK wrote: After persisting for a couple of weeks unsuccessfully I have decided to seek your help in how to replace a rudder line on a Nelo 550.

When I last replaced the lines on my 550 I resorted to the vacuum method. I attached a wand at the rear with a good amount of duck tape and that made it relatively easy. Tried everything else before that without any success.

Hi TVE,

Assuming you used original Nelo lines how did you get the line into the front end? It seems to just bunch up as the hole is so small. I have tried a couple of things but they didn't work. I am afraid to use tape to compress the end in case it falls off inside the tube. I am considering using QPower lines as I believe they are more rigid and have no braiding.

JohnK wrote: Assuming you used original Nelo lines how did you get the line into the front end? It seems to just bunch up as the hole is so small. I have tried a couple of things but they didn't work. I am afraid to use tape to compress the end in case it falls off inside the tube. I am considering using QPower lines as I believe they are more rigid and have no braiding.

I did use original Nelo lines with new adjustment blocks preattached (I actually needed new blocks more than new lines). So I had to feed them in from the front. Get a clean cut (not easy with this stuff) and push it a bit in, after that the suction takes care of it. It wasn't totally trivial, but not that hard either.

When I get frustrated, I sometimes say “it is like pushing on a string.”  It sounds you literally are pushing on a string.  I’ve always used stainless steel fishing leader wire (not cable) to help pull the string (dyneema, etc) through.  The wire is very thin, the thinnest, lowest test they make, though thicker may also work.  IF tubes are intact, it will easily push through.  Then you can twist a small loop on the end of the wire, put line through the loop, squeeze loop closed with pliers, maybe tape connection real tight and small, then pull wire through.  Yes, cord will be doubled over for 1-2 cm, but still should pull through easily.
if the wire will not push through, the tube is not intact and smooth.  If one direction does not work, try the other direction.

All
In the end I received the Qpower lines and fed it from the bucket towards the rear
It took less than one minute: so no broken tube which I had checked by putting some water in from the rear and it came out at the bucket

Thanks for all the advice guys

I need to replace the rudder lines on my 510.

Googled, and found this video from Oscar

fb.watch/rxSmWSrbAy/

I needed to replace the adjusters on my 510 - they come with rudder lines affixed.

Cut old line on one side, tried the Oscar method. It initially worked, and then the line just bulged when pushed. I think this was a result of packaging, where the line had been bent to coil it, it seemed less 'stiff'.

So, I took some copper earth wire (stripped of insulation) and threaded that through from the back. bent an eye in the end and wondered how to attach it to the line.

Then had a brainwave. Strong needle, thread and 'stitched' it to the copper eye. Left a gap between line and copper, with just thread connecting them. Whipped the end of the line with the thread to stop it 'unravelling' as I pulled it through.

That worked a treat.

So, for the other side, I just cut the old line at the cockpit, stitched it to the new line and pulled it through. Easy peasy.