V12 - Anchor point for leash

I was recently out in some rather large conditions doing a downwind run and started to surf a particularly big wave which was just about to break (I didn't notice it was about to break until it was too late). The wave was just too steep for me and the nose buried and the ski went end over. The ski pulled me underwater via the leash for what seemed like an eternity and when I eventually popped back up (I was wearing a PFD) I noticed that the leash had pulled the foot strap from its anchor point on the foot board.

The leash was only just attached to the foot strap as I had put the loop in-between the velcro to keep it in the middle. I was incredibly lucky as the footstrap must have broken just when my weight pulled the surfski off the wave. Had it broken any earlier, I have no doubt that the leash would have come totally off the footstrap and the ski would probably have continued to surf the 2 miles to shore without me. (for any Hawaiian's I was coming back from Bird Sh#t Rock)

I contacted my local epic dealer who very quickly provided me with another footstrap free of charge (the ski is only 4 months old). He asked me to have a look at where the footstrap is attached to the rudder board as there is supposed to be a small plate which spreads the load to prevent this sort of thing happening. I noticed that this plate was not screwed in tight as the screw was hitting the rail which the rudder board slides along. Consequently this meant that the two screws were taking all the weight and this resulted in the webbing of the footstrap being torn through.

The point in this hard to understand post is:
a. Why don't all ski manufacturers design a purpose built leash attachment (similar to Huki design)
b. If you own a V12 - make sure to check that the rails are not preventing the footstrap being properly secured. With a bit more force the screws can be fully tightened however it does restrict the adjustment of the rudderboard a bit.

It`s good to see some of the boats with well designed anchor points for the leash. I`m still stuck using my spec ski, which means that the leash has to attach to the weaker footstraps.
I really like the ideas championed by Didier Plouhinic in Brittany: www.surfski.info/getting-started/tips-ot...-their-surfskis.html
and Magnus De Brito with his Point 65 Bourbon Orca:
www.surfski.info/latest-news/item/1281-p...ca-design-notes.html
This system is especially helpful if you do get it wrong in (big) breaking surf!

Leash anchored anywhere near the center of the ski = recipe for maximum traction on your leash/anchor point/knee.
You're lucky the footstrap was the first to break, it might have been your knee !
Didier Plouhinec and Point65 solutions are the way to go if you paddle in big surf.

I was just out paddling and the footplate on my v12 came loose on one side. two screws had worked their way loose. I bought new screws (10-32), cut them to size and replaced them. I did use some locktite on the threads. I also pulled all the other screws and added locktite before putting them back.


I would advise everyone to check for loose screws periodically.

My wife keeps telling me I have a screw loose but I'll be damned if I can find it


Doesn't hurt to be reminded, I have had the same thing happen with a V10sport, but I imagine any ski could suffer the same issue. Just glad I picked up my loose footplate screws while on dry land. Stories of rudder failure, footplate failure etc remind us to do a check if these things so we are not left floundering offshore in big swell

I go through with a screwdriver and periodically (once a month or so) check the screws on my skis. Like AR's wife, I have found one loose from time to time.
I also make a point of taking off the rudder cover and checking the yolk and lines after every paddle. Takes about 10 seconds to do and could save some big headaches, or worse, next time out.

I bought new screws (10-32), cut them to size and replaced them.

Do you realise that they will rust where you cut them?

The original stainless screws were also cut/ground down to the proper length (~4mm). No rust there. Maybe you are thinking of galvanized steel? I think if you cut SS with a torch in can rust as you melt out the protective chromium and nickel and change the composition of steel near the cut. You can also get superficial rust from a non-stainless saw rubbing off on the stainless metal.

Just google passivating stainless steel.
Any time stainless has been worked, it needs passivating.

Interesting. I'll have to check the screws for rusting. Fortunately I'm about 2000 miles from salt water...

In that case you will probably be fine.

nothing fortunate about that:)

would some varnish or paint over the cut protect the screws from rust ? I need to replace some screws on my foot plate...

Thanks
I'll check that. Must say i joined the SUP side for the past few months. Though it is great cross training, and i do like it, i gotta say i love my V12. First downwind yesterday and we were screaming like girls. Sitting in the v12 just feels awesome nevermind once you get moving and blow other away.
V12!!

You should be fine if you cut the screws with a hacksaw, this is not really working the steel so little or no change in the composition will occur. Just don't let it overheat while cutting - so cut slowly or keep cool with water or cutting fluid.

More importantly make sure you use the correct grade of stainless steel screws - not all stainless steel is suitable for salt water. Ideally you want to stick with 316 or 316L for marine or pool (chlorine) environments and inside people (artificial hips) as others are more susceptible to stress corrosion cracking - which you will not pick up until the screw sheers off completely.

I have had stainless steel windsurfing harnesses fail catastrophically - the 5mm stainless steel hook snaps clean off like a dry twig with no warning only to discover they were not made from marine grade stainless steel.

Usually if you buy stainless steel from a marine supplier it will be marine grade - but the usual hardware store supplies will likely be 304 which you may want to avoid. I am a bit out of touch with all this so you might want to contact a marine engineering firm to check that I have the grades correct.

I just got a V12 a couple of weeks ago - can anyone tell me whether the attachment point in the middle of the cockpit (or whatever its called) is for a paddle leash or for attaching the ski to the paddler ?

My experience in large surf or open ocean (e.g. Miller Run) is that its a pretty big hit when a growler goes over you and that little attachment point looks like it will rip out very easily.

For now I am using the footstrap as the main attachment point - any thoughts on what the best spot is ? I will send a note to Epic themselves to get their opinion.

Didn't know that Epic skis had a dedicated leash attachment point. I own 2 of their skis and neither has one. Must be a new addition to their skis... I've always attached the leash to the foot strap on my V12.

I hope your not thinking of the bailer handle........


An attachment point must be a new thing to Epic, and good on em if they have.
I attach mine to the rail that mounts the sliding footboard. I put my GPS on the footstrap.

Update; I saw a brand new V10 sport today and guess what, it had a V8 style leash mounting point.

Guess it may be an upgrade across the range.

I wonder if it is able to be retrofitted or if there is a strengthening around it on the new ones.

I agree in theory with the 316 vs 304 statement ,but in my experience some 304 never stains but some 316 does ? , the 316 self tapping screws I buy from my local supplier started rusting 5 or so years ago as I believe their supplier sourced them elsewhere (probably china $$$)

as to the leash attachment there should be a metal plate or washer/nut on the backside of the laminate or the bolt/screw holding it down will rip straight through IMO.