If you do not have fuzz coming through the resin, your life is much easier. It sounds like this is the case. If you only refer to the rough weave pattern, then painting on a layer or 2 of epoxy and sanding smooth is your ticket.
Note, sanding epoxy to a near gloss finish sucks, so you'll want to do a nice job to begin with or else you're in for a lot of manual labor.
Make sure you clean the boat well with acetone or some other medium-strong solvent. After rough the surface if the boat if possible. (I say if possible because you do not want to fuzz up the kevlar if the skin coat is exceptionally thin or worn). Some manufacturers put a thin layer of glass over the kevlar to resist fuzzing as the boat wears. Its hard to see since glass becomes clear with resin, but its worth a check by sanding a small spot to see if there is anything between the skin coat and kevlar. If there is indeed a layer of glass, you can sand without as much worry.
If you do more than 1 coat, you either need to apply the 2nd coat while the first is partially cured (as in firm but not cured), or else wait for a full cure of the 1st coat, then wash off the amine blush with acetone (the cloudy appearance on the surface of some epoxies after curing), then sand with rough grit sandpaper. Amine blush will inhibit adhesion of the next layer.
Something to note - I forget where I read it, but I believe that scratches/dents/imperfections less than .008" (.2mm) deep do not affect the hull because they are inside your static boundary layer, so that water is getting dragged along with the boat whether its perfectly smooth or all .008" imperfect. Maybe a fluid dynamics nerd can confirm this.
Currently paddling a Kai Wa'a Vega Flex in Southern California's ocean waters
Past Boats: Epic V10g1, Stellar SRg1, Fenn XTg1, Swordfish S
"When you've done something right, they wont know you've done anything at all"