Suggestions for ski repairers in Sydney area (Australia)

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5 months 4 days ago #39310 by Jamesjr
Hi,
I have an old V12 that takes on a little bit of water and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions other than Sydney Ski repairs who no longer take on work?

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5 months 4 days ago #39314 by robin.mousley
Here's the word from someone in the know:

"Take it to Maxi boats in the shire. Expensive but great job. Or Andrew divola in manly- he probably won't answer your call and will take 3 months for a repair but it will be cheaper."

Maxy boats +61 409 910 059
Andrew Divola +61 415 209 450

Rob

Currently Fenn Swordfish S, Epic V10 Double.
Previously: Think Evo II, Carbonology Zest, Fenn Swordfish, Epic V10, Fenn Elite, Red7 Surf70 Pro, Epic V10 Sport, Genius Blu, Kayak Centre Zeplin, Fenn Mako6, Custom Kayaks ICON, Brian's Kayaks Molokai, Brian's Kayaks Wedge and several others...
The following user(s) said Thank You: Jamesjr

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5 months 3 days ago #39322 by tve
How old is old? Do you know where it leaks? I'm asking because there was a year (or a couple?) where Epic changed the rudder line tubing material and that started to dissolve due to the adhesive used to tack it to the hull (oops). So doing a soap-water bubble test may tell you where it's leaking from and then you may have some options to consider...

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5 months 3 days ago #39324 by Jamesjr
Hi,
It is a gen 1 v12, the serial number ends with 910 so I assume 2010 or so. Thanks for the suggestion about the soapy water, although I could not notice any leaks blowing into the breather when  filling the rudder housing with water showed that air is escaping through the rudder lines. I saw a prior post about filling the surrounds with epoxy, not sure I am game to try that!
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5 months 3 days ago #39326 by Ranga
I would think it is the tubes being that age and the tell tale is the orange tubes. It was not the glue that caused the issue as that has not changed even until now, it was the tubing material they bought (polyurethane), assuming it to be either superior or they had a supply issue. As it turns out not so good with moisture as UV is not the issue being inside. They are not the only ones to have this issue as I have changed quite a few. 
Common old 6mm nylon air tubing is the go. 

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5 months 2 days ago #39327 by waverider
Is changing this tubing a big job, and does it involve cutting open holes in the hull?

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5 months 2 days ago #39328 by Jamesjr
Thanks for all the suggestions, late yesterday I put a bit of epoxy around the tubes and the hull was dry after todays paddle... Hopefully my "barn find" will stay dry now so I can enjoy it without worrying about that issue.

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5 months 2 days ago #39330 by Ranga
I can do a tube change without cutting anything open but it has taken me quite a long time to perfect it. Most times you would not know it has been done.

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5 months 2 days ago #39331 by kwolfe
Ranga,
Can you elaborate on how to do that?  I could see possible drilling out the stern end to pull/push the new tube through but how do you handle it where the rudder cable comes out by the feet?  Epics have that black plastic cable guide.

Also, how do you keep the tube from shaking around inside the ski if its not secured to the inside somehow.  

Would love a step by step instruction.

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5 months 2 days ago #39332 by Ranga
Will give a brief overview. 
As for the tube not being secured internally, a lot of skis are not so I don't worry about that and nobody has complained as yet including myself on my V8.
At the back inside the rudder well I drill out the old tubes with a right angle head drilling machine, 6.5mm stub drill.
The front I die grind the slot in plastic molding with a 6mm burr to open it up so I can then drill with a long drill 6.5mm at an angle similar to the cockpit side.
Inserting the tube, I insert a 6mm S/S tube into the back housing, about 100mm before the front outlet. Feed a thin dyneema fishing line through the tube and pull it out through the front outlet with a hook made with 2mm wire (sounds simple!). Tie the front off and pull the S/S tube out.
Feed the Dyneema through the 6mm nylon tube at the back outside the ski (Dyneema is longer than tube and ski), tie the back off (just tie a washer at the end of the Dyneema stopping it from pulling through).
The nylon is pre-sanded either end and is about 300mm longer than required and the rear is secured from pulling through with a 1/4 Swagelock S/S ferrule that is swaged over the tube. Pull the Dyneema from the front and feed the tube till it comes out the front outlet.
Pull the nylon tight from the front and tape it to the side of the cockpit at the height of the peddle, basically parallel to the rail.
Epoxy either end obviously before you pull it tight.
At the back to stop the tubes from pulling at an angle as some outlets are not flat but rounded I have a U shaped wire that goes inside both tubes to hold them straight and secure it to the rudder post with a threaded rod going through the ski with nuts and washers either side.
When hard trim either end, back is just a little and the front I can trim flush with the molding but prefer to trim 90 deg to the ski at the end of the molding as this gives a bit more bonding area. I then lightly touch the internal diameter exit of the nylon with a soldering iron to remove the sharp edges to stop rudder cord from being cut.
And after just a few hrs it's done! 
P.S. Every ski is brand different and has a variation to this process.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Atlas, tve, waverider, Jamesjr

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5 months 1 day ago - 5 months 1 day ago #39333 by LaPerouseBay

Ranga,
Can you elaborate on how to do that? 

Would love a step by step instruction.
Oh come on kwolf, try to be realistic.  Ranga would be doing you (and any non expert at composites) a disservice by giving instructions.  It would take an encyclopedia to bring you up to speed on how not to ruin that boat.
 
Why am I skeptical of your composite experience?
You recently started a thread about clearcoating your boat.  It ended with you stating that you are not sure if it has a gelcoat. 

It should be on the Epic website.  It's white.  It's gelcoat.  

Gelcoat is awesome by the way, very durable and polishes up great.  Expensive and unforgiving to apply though.  That's a common theme with anything composite.  Very unforgiving to user error.

If you don't have a composite repair shop to fix your boat, you are out of luck.  That's a tough repair for a novice.  I'm a novice at composites.  I'm a professional woodworker and I wouldn't attempt that repair without an expert looking over my shoulder.  

It is probably a tricky one for a composite pro too.  It took Ranga several attempts to perfect it.    

I was curious about the method so I asked my composite repair pro.  He wouldn't tell me and I don't blame him.  He's got overhead in a real shop.  Why give away his trade secrets? 

If I spread his knowledge around, some yahoo fixing surfboards in his Mom's garage may steal his clients.  And worse, do shitty work.  Then the pros have to fix it and listen to the owner complain about the price...

Edit: I wrote the above comment and posted.   Ranga had posted his answer just before me!  Classic!
I won't edit what I typed up above, I stand by what I wrote.
Good ideas Ranga, Sounds very practical.  Hope I never need that one, but If I do, I'm taking it to a pro.  Ha ha ha!  Sounds easy! NOT! 




 


   

 

downwind dilettante
Last edit: 5 months 1 day ago by LaPerouseBay.

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5 months 1 day ago #39334 by Jamesjr
yep, leave it to the professionals.

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5 months 1 day ago #39335 by kwolfe
Thanks for the details Ranga. That gave me a good overview and especially explained the part I always wondered about. 

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