Question for the ski builders

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10 years 6 months ago #18735 by Boof Head
I've built my own timber ski. I've been out in it a few times and went out today and the rudder shaft had siezed rock solid in th tube. The shaft is SS and the tube is aluminium. It was snug fit but moved freely enough. When I assembled it, I covered h shaft with synthetic grease hoping to create some sort of barrier to minimise chance of galvanic corrosion. didn't work.

My question is; do the ski builders use a SS tube? If not, what sort of gap do you allow between shaft and tube?

Cheers

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10 years 6 months ago #18736 by Kayaker Greg
Yeah aluminium and SS don't go together unless you anodize the aluminium but I don't know why you didn't just use an SS tube?

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10 years 6 months ago #18739 by Kennneee
I ran a boat yard for years and experimented with different ways to keep aluminum and SS to get along. The best thing I found was lanolin. There is a product called Lanocote that is basically lanolin and works amazingly well. Rinse the shaft and tube as well as you can after using the ski and keep some Lanocote on it and that will probably be your best solutions short of changing the tube.
www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal..._product.do?pid=3869

Cheers,

Ken

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10 years 6 months ago #18740 by Kennneee
Boof Head,

Do you have any pics of your ski. Your design? I have always built my own boats until I got into skis. I plan to build my own when I figure out a design that will be worth the time and effort. Here are a few pics of some of my boats.
picasaweb.google.com/kennneee/AFewOfKenSKayaks

Cheers,

Ken

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10 years 6 months ago #18742 by YBA/Jim Murray
never-seize/never-seez from Bostic, nickle base might work well too.

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10 years 6 months ago - 10 years 6 months ago #18743 by Newbflat

Kennneee wrote: I ran a boat yard for years and experimented with different ways to keep aluminum and SS to get along. The best thing I found was lanolin. There is a product called Lanocote that is basically lanolin and works amazingly well. Rinse the shaft and tube as well as you can after using the ski and keep some Lanocote on it and that will probably be your best solutions short of changing the tube.
www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal..._product.do?pid=3869

Cheers,

Ken


Another more generic name for this product is 'anhydrous lanolin'. It works well but you should reapply it every once in a while. But none of these products desined as a galvanic barrier coat work well in applications that 'work'... They work much better for screws, wire, and tight non moving fits.

Bill

FENN Bluefin S
FENN Swordfish S carbon hybrid
Epic V8 double gen 2
Lot and lots of DK rudders.


Had:
Stellar SEL excel (gen 2)
Stellar SR excel (gen2)
Stellar S18s g1 (excel)
Epic V10 Double (performance)
Stellar SR (gen 1)
V10 sport (gen 2)
V10 (Gen 2)
Beater SEL (gen 1)
Last edit: 10 years 6 months ago by Newbflat.

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10 years 6 months ago #18744 by zachhandler
Time for an aluminum rudder shaft?

Current Skis: Epic v10 g3, NK 670 double, NK exrcize, Kai Wa’a Vega, Carbonology Feather, Think Jet, Knysna Sonic X
Former Skis: Epic V12 g2, Epic V12 g1, Epic v10 double, Nelo 550 g2, Fenn Elite S, Custom Kayaks Synergy

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10 years 6 months ago - 10 years 6 months ago #18745 by Boof Head
Thanks for replies. It was seized up so bad that the tube came loose when I tried to free the shaft. The tube had to be removed so SS tube will solve the problem.

Ken, I took some pics yesterday and will post shortly. The timber skis already posted here were my inspiration. Love your badairka.

I base mine on a CCL Pax 20 hull. Modified the sheerline, beam, bow, stern.

I have designed a few using KayakFoundary as have a few others. The designs are available at blueheronkayaks.com

Bjorn Thomasson has produced plans for sale. He designed the Nordic fusion ski. Will find the link.

www.thomassondesign.com/en/news/surfski-for-strip-building




Cheers
Last edit: 10 years 6 months ago by Boof Head.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Kennneee

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